A Conversation with Oronzo De Matteis, Global Footwear Awards Juror

In this exclusive interview, Oronzo De Matteis shares his journey from his early days in Germany to becoming a renowned figure in luxury footwear design. We delve into his experiences, design philosophy, and the influence of both German and Italian cultures on his creative aesthetic. As a jury member for the Global Footwear Awards, Oronzo offers invaluable insights and advice for aspiring designers while reflecting on his contributions to the ever-evolving world of fashion.

Join us as we uncover the creative process behind his work and gain insights into his unique approach to design.

Can you tell us about your background and professional training?

I was born in Rheine, Germany, and grew up near Düsseldorf, a key hub of German romanticism known for hosting international trade fairs, including the GDS International Event for Shoes. In 2000, I relocated to San Mauro Pascoli, Italy, the epicentre of luxury footwear. My training was through CERCAL (Shoe Academy), where I pursued High International Training in “Technical Industrializer Designer/Modeler of Luxury Footwear.” I earned a Diploma in the Merceological Study of Leather and Luxury Footwear Components. I also spent three years working with Sergio Rossi, who later joined the Gucci Group.

From 2004 to 2007, I launched my brand under the “OROORO” trademark, serving as CEO, Founder, and Creative Director. In 2005-2006, I worked with Bruno Magli Shoes, where I gained experience in style and manual techniques, overseeing the entire shoe-making process. After moving to Bologna, I frequently travelled between San Mauro Pascoli, Rome, Milan, and Florence. I briefly worked with Baldinini but remained focused on developing my brand.

In 2009, I became involved with Alta Roma Alta Moda, showcasing my work on Italian high fashion runways alongside top names in fashion for over 13 years. In 2012, I was honoured as Master of Art by the Chamber of Fashion, leading to teaching opportunities and workshops at Fashion Academies. My work has been featured in magazines such as Vogue Italia and House Couture, and I’ve been dubbed the “designer of the Divas” for my timeless, regal shoes. After fashion catwalks, I ventured into cinema, designing shoes for various films and TV productions. In 2013, I partnered with AltaRoma AltaModa and Wedding World fashion shows. Notable collections include Gold Edition Limited, Desiderium, Timeless Endless Edition, Luxury Dream of Queen, and Positive Sneakers.

How did design play such an important role in your life, what is fashion for you?

I’ve always been resistant to following trends and prefer simplicity, which I see as synonymous with beauty—so much so that I’ve made it one of my guiding principles. I value elegance and refinement, focusing on quality, comfort, and design, while also being committed to sustainability by exploring non-animal materials, such as those derived from fruit molecules. Fashion is integral to my life; it comes naturally to me and aligns with my core values and principles, reflecting both the heritage and land that influence my creations.

Where has it taken you over the years, have you ever thought of giving up during your journey?

I’ve reached the level I aspired to, becoming a notable fashion personality, but I don’t see myself as having arrived—I remain grounded and accustomed to hard work. The career is challenging, and staying relevant in fashion and cinema requires continuous effort. I have considered giving up many times, but each time, the desire to continue drives me forward, confirming that this is the right path for me.

What are the most important aspects that OROORO wants to convey to its consumers?

OroOro is recognized for its elegant, feminine, and refined creations, with a distinctive Italian style and design appreciated in European and international fashion circles. Our collections are known for their originality, elegance, and attention to detail, offering high-end fashion footwear that combines style, quality, and comfort. Each piece is crafted from fine leather and eco-sustainable materials, embellished with Swarovski stones. The OROORO style is encapsulated in three letters: E-Q-C—Elegance, Quality, and Comfort.

What is, in your opinion, your design philosophy? How has this philosophy evolved over the years?

My philosophy revolves around luxury and beauty, aiming to continuously surprise and stay updated. I keep an eye on emerging trends and capture them ahead of time. This requires creativity and intuition, honed through experience and a commitment to staying relevant. Over time, my philosophy has remained focused on attention to detail and respect for every project, whether for my own brand or others. The use of AI and graphics software has enhanced my creative process, and I strive to adapt and innovate based on the current era.

What is meant by the term: FASHION?

“FASHION” represents the societal appearance reflecting current tastes, particularly in luxury and elegance. It encompasses articles and accessories for women’s clothing that embody both luxury and sophistication. Recent developments have positioned fashion strongly in global markets, supported by technological and industrial advancements in our country.

Which brands have you interacted with and what are your latest collaborations?

I’ve collaborated with renowned luxury brands such as Sergio Rossi, Gucci Group, Bruno Magli, and Baldinini, as well as working with brands like Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent. I later launched my own brand, OROORO BRAND LUXURY.

Having experienced both German and Italian culture, how have these different cultures influenced your design aesthetic and your professional approach?

Growing up in Düsseldorf, a city known for its romanticism, greatly influenced my design aesthetic, instilling a sense of beauty and romanticism in my work. The colourful houses and the vibrant German culture contributed to my sense of aesthetics and taste. Alongside this, German culture imparted a rebellious spirit and openness to diverse cultures, enriching my curiosity and adaptability.

Moving to Italy, I was immersed in the baroque beauty of Salento and the local traditions, which have deeply inspired my designs. The Italian culture of hospitality and simplicity continues to influence my creative process, transforming sensory experiences into artistic expressions.

In your opinion, what are the key elements that define luxury footwear and how do you integrate these elements into your designs?

Research and shape study are crucial to defining the character of footwear. I focus on refined, delicate lines, paying meticulous attention to every detail. The choice of materials, such as soft leathers and customized accessories, is essential to achieving a superior quality. My goal is to create a shoe that seamlessly complements the wearer. The integration of customized heels and precious stones adds the final touch, enhancing the overall design.

Could you share a particularly memorable experience of your work that you still think about today?

One memorable moment was my first Italian Haute Couture event, where my creations graced the runway, highlighted by the accessories I designed. The reaction from the audience, including my proud parents, was incredibly rewarding. Seeing my designs celebrated and appreciated was a profound and fulfilling experience.

Can you share a case in which a design did not go as planned? What did you learn from that experience?

A recent challenge occurred when the pandemic disrupted our plans for a high-end collection. Despite meticulous preparation, the pandemic’s impact on global supply chains and markets affected our expectations. This experience taught me not to take anything for granted and to adapt to unforeseen circumstances. I learned to focus on creating more comfortable designs, such as Sneakers and Bags while maintaining a belief in the enduring value of luxury. The key is to keep moving forward and never stop pursuing one’s goals.

As a member of the jury for the Global Footwear Awards, what do you give priority to when evaluating designs?

I focus on the initial impact and the emotional response conveyed by the design. My method involves viewing all projects in-depth and reflecting on them over time to identify those that evoke strong feelings. I prioritize originality, creativity, and dedication, paying close attention to innovative and futuristic projects. I encourage young designers to seek guidance from experienced craftsmen and manufacturers to refine their ideas.

What advice would you give to aspiring designers who admire you?

Dreams require effort and persistence. Shortcuts can lead to losing sight of your original vision. Stay true to your dream, and remember that talent will eventually find its moment. Don’t be discouraged by obstacles; they are part of the journey to success.

What do you envision for the future, both for yourself and for the design community in general?

I aim to continue creating “Shoes and Bags” with positivity and determination, fulfilling dreams and exploring new opportunities. I am open to contributing to a major luxury fashion house and remain committed to promoting Italian excellence. For the design community, I encourage curiosity, creativity, and resilience. Embrace technical aspects and let your creativity guide you, always striving to improve and innovate.