An Exclusive Interview with a Leading Figure in Footwear Design: Caroline de Baere

Meet Caroline de Baere whose impressive career spans over three decades of shaping the luxury footwear industry. With a profound commitment to sustainable practices and a wealth of experience in design, product development, manufacturing, and sales, Caroline stands as a key figure at the forefront of innovative design and environmental responsibility. Her work exemplifies the perfect blend of artistry, expertise, and a passion for creating a more sustainable future in fashion.

Caroline’s career is defined by her vast knowledge of every facet of the footwear industry. From branding and concept development to final consumer delivery, she has successfully worked with both large global brands and emerging start-ups. Over the years, her deep industry expertise has expanded beyond design, allowing her to serve as an Intellectual Property expert witness in over two dozen litigation cases since 2012. Her insights into design patents, trademarks, trade secrets, and counterfeit protection have made her a sought-after consultant and a valuable voice in safeguarding creative ownership in fashion. Additionally, Caroline’s contributions to innovation are tangible, as she holds four United States footwear design patents to her name.

Her dedication to nurturing the next generation of designers is just as inspiring. As an Adjunct II Professor of footwear design at the California College of the Arts, Caroline has been a mentor, educator, and advocate for countless young designers. Her work with aspiring talents reflects her passion for the craft and her desire to see a more sustainable, responsible fashion industry emerge. Beyond the classroom, Caroline’s influence extends through public speaking engagements, panel discussions, and lectures across the United States and Asia, where she shares her knowledge at industry events like PI Apparel, SF Sustainable Fashion Week, and the Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America.

In 2024, Caroline’s journey continues to evolve with exciting new initiatives. As a strategic consultant for the United States Footwear Manufacturers Association, she is helping to grow its membership and influence. She is also honored to serve as a juror for the 2024 Global Footwear Awards, where her expertise will help shape the future of design excellence. Additionally, her recent launch of the IP Science: A Brand Protection Masterclass showcases her dedication to empowering designers to protect their work in a competitive industry.

Despite her packed professional life, Caroline finds balance in managing her idyllic Garden View Guest House in Mill Valley, California, where she hosts guests from around the world alongside her twin teenagers. With over 150 glowing five-star reviews, Caroline’s warmth and hospitality shine through in every aspect of her life.

Join us as we uncover Caroline de Baere’s remarkable journey and explore how her unique perspective continues to shape the future of fashion, footwear design, and sustainability.

Can you tell us about your background? How did your journey to become such a prominent figure in the design community begin, and where did it take you over the years?

I began my journey in the footwear industry over three decades ago, building a strong foundation in design and product development. My early experience at Ariat International, where I managed product development and design, set the stage for my future success. Over the years, I expanded my expertise through roles that provided a more balanced approach and understanding of the industry overall with roles in sales, operations, and merchandising. I eventually started my consulting business, Laforma, www.laforma.net, where I provided comprehensive industry services in design and management.

My work has led me to collaborate with numerous start-ups as well as larger known brands. Now I continue with clients and have expanded my work to contribute to intellectual property cases as a footwear expert witness, and share my knowledge as an Adjunct Professor, teaching footwear design at California College of the Arts. Through public speaking, mentoring, and education, I’ve become a trusted voice and leader in the design community.

What would you say is your personal artistic philosophy? How has it evolved throughout the years?

My personal artistic philosophy centers on the balance between creativity, communication, and sustainability. I believe design should not only inspire but also serve a practical purpose and be mindful of its environmental impact.

Over the years, this philosophy has evolved, particularly through my teaching and mentoring roles. Guiding students and working with emerging brands has deepened my commitment to freedom of expression, circular design and innovation. I emphasize the importance of research, being unique, collaborating, and continuous learning, allowing my artistic approach to adapt and stay relevant in an ever-changing industry.

You’ve been working closely with the next generations of designers for a while now; can you share some of the new challenges designers face nowadays? What led to these difficulties, and how can they be overcome?

Designers today face challenges that stem from the rapid pace of technological change, increased emphasis on sustainability, and the pressure to stay relevant in a crowded market. The demand for circularity and eco-friendly materials adds complexity to the design process, while advancements in digital tools require constant upskilling.

Additionally, the global nature of the industry presents challenges in sourcing, production, and intellectual property protection. These difficulties can be overcome through education, mentorship, and fostering a mindset of adaptability. By encouraging collaboration, continuous learning, and innovative thinking, designers can navigate these challenges and thrive in this evolving landscape.

As someone who works both in the creative and business sides of footwear design, how do you balance your artistic vision with market demands?

Balancing artistic vision with market demands requires a strategic approach. I start by grounding my designs in a deep understanding of consumer needs and market trends, ensuring that creativity aligns with commercial viability.

By maintaining close relationships with brands, suppliers, and consumers, I can merge innovative concepts with practical solutions that meet market expectations. Flexibility is key—I’m always ready to adapt designs without sacrificing core artistic values. Through years of experience, I’ve found the ability to deliver products that are both visually appealing and successfully able to meet financial objectives.

Can you tell us about your experience as an expert witness in IP litigation cases? Do you feel like intellectual property rights in the design world are in danger?

As an expert witness in IP litigation since 2011, I’ve had the chance to dive into the essentials of design protection. It’s been fascinating to see how the legal side of creativity works. From patents to trademarks, trade dress, counterfeits, and trade secrets, I’ve worked with attorneys to over three dozen Intellectual Property cases for small and large brands and individuals.

Honestly, I don’t think intellectual property rights are in danger. The systems in place are solid, and as long as designers stay informed and proactive and stay unique through design and innovation, they can protect their work effectively. It’s about being aware of the rules, what’s already out there, and using knowledge to your advantage.

Your career must have given you many good stories and projects that make you the perfect guest at any dinner. Could you tell us about something special you still think about to this day?

One story that always sticks with me is from my early days when I was trying to transition from the production side of footwear into design. I was an International Business major, so I didn’t have the typical design background.

I approached the president of the footwear division at Esprit and told him I wanted to transfer into design. He walked me into the showroom and grabbed a shoe called the Audrey, then went over to the large copy room in the office and handed me a stack of blank paper and a shoe, saying, “Draw this shoe until you can do it with your eyes closed.” That moment changed everything for me. I practiced every day and when a role opened up for a design assistant in footwear, I got the job.

I’m forever grateful that someone had faith in me and gave me that chance. It’s a reminder that sometimes all it takes is actually asking and knowing that one person believing in you may be all you need to kickstart your journey.

One important thing that stands out to me is that the footwear industry is very supportive. I can see people or speak to many I have not seen in 20 or more years, and it is like we saw each other just the week before. We help each other. I have so many amazing friendships with my fellow footwear industry friends that will last a lifetime. We are like a huge family.

As a jury member for the Global Footwear Awards, what do you prioritise when evaluating designs, and what advice would you give to aspiring designers?

As a jury member for the Global Footwear Awards, I prioritize designs that go beyond just great sketches or renderings. It’s important to consider the whole package—how the design functions, its sustainability, and how well the concept is communicated. A strong design tells a story and has a clear purpose.

For aspiring designers, my biggest advice is to network. Don’t be afraid to ask for connections or recommendations, and always seek out advice from those with experience. The industry is full of people willing to help—you just have to put yourself out there and make those connections.

What do you want to see happening in the future, both for you and for the design community?

After three decades in the industry, I feel it’s the perfect time to give back. For me, that means continuing to teach at California College of the Arts, working as an Intellectual Property expert witness, and sharing my knowledge at industry conferences and through Masterclasses.

I believe it’s crucial to support and mentor the next generation of designers. Looking ahead, I hope to see more collaboration and knowledge-sharing within the design community, fostering an environment where we all lift each other up and push the industry forward together.