In this exclusive interview, Oronzo De Matteis shares his journey from his early days in Germany to becoming a renowned figure in luxury footwear design. We delve into his experiences, design philosophy, and the influence of both German and Italian cultures on his creative aesthetic. As a jury member for the Global Footwear Awards, Oronzo offers invaluable insights and advice for aspiring designers while reflecting on his contributions to the ever-evolving world of fashion.
Join us as we uncover the creative process behind his work and gain insights into his unique approach to design.
Can you tell us about your background and professional training?
I was born in Rheine, Germany, and grew up near Düsseldorf, a key hub of German romanticism known for hosting international trade fairs, including the GDS International Event for Shoes. In 2000, I relocated to San Mauro Pascoli, Italy, the epicentre of luxury footwear. My training was through CERCAL (Shoe Academy), where I pursued High International Training in “Technical Industrializer Designer/Modeler of Luxury Footwear.” I earned a Diploma in the Merceological Study of Leather and Luxury Footwear Components. I also spent three years working with Sergio Rossi, who later joined the Gucci Group.
From 2004 to 2007, I launched my brand under the “OROORO” trademark, serving as CEO, Founder, and Creative Director. In 2005-2006, I worked with Bruno Magli Shoes, where I gained experience in style and manual techniques, overseeing the entire shoe-making process. After moving to Bologna, I frequently travelled between San Mauro Pascoli, Rome, Milan, and Florence. I briefly worked with Baldinini but remained focused on developing my brand.
In 2009, I became involved with Alta Roma Alta Moda, showcasing my work on Italian high fashion runways alongside top names in fashion for over 13 years. In 2012, I was honoured as Master of Art by the Chamber of Fashion, leading to teaching opportunities and workshops at Fashion Academies. My work has been featured in magazines such as Vogue Italia and House Couture, and I’ve been dubbed the “designer of the Divas” for my timeless, regal shoes. After fashion catwalks, I ventured into cinema, designing shoes for various films and TV productions. In 2013, I partnered with AltaRoma AltaModa and Wedding World fashion shows. Notable collections include Gold Edition Limited, Desiderium, Timeless Endless Edition, Luxury Dream of Queen, and Positive Sneakers.
How did design play such an important role in your life, what is fashion for you?
I’ve always been resistant to following trends and prefer simplicity, which I see as synonymous with beauty—so much so that I’ve made it one of my guiding principles. I value elegance and refinement, focusing on quality, comfort, and design, while also being committed to sustainability by exploring non-animal materials, such as those derived from fruit molecules. Fashion is integral to my life; it comes naturally to me and aligns with my core values and principles, reflecting both the heritage and land that influence my creations.
Where has it taken you over the years, have you ever thought of giving up during your journey?
I’ve reached the level I aspired to, becoming a notable fashion personality, but I don’t see myself as having arrived—I remain grounded and accustomed to hard work. The career is challenging, and staying relevant in fashion and cinema requires continuous effort. I have considered giving up many times, but each time, the desire to continue drives me forward, confirming that this is the right path for me.
What are the most important aspects that OROORO wants to convey to its consumers?
OroOro is recognized for its elegant, feminine, and refined creations, with a distinctive Italian style and design appreciated in European and international fashion circles. Our collections are known for their originality, elegance, and attention to detail, offering high-end fashion footwear that combines style, quality, and comfort. Each piece is crafted from fine leather and eco-sustainable materials, embellished with Swarovski stones. The OROORO style is encapsulated in three letters: E-Q-C—Elegance, Quality, and Comfort.
What is, in your opinion, your design philosophy? How has this philosophy evolved over the years?
My philosophy revolves around luxury and beauty, aiming to continuously surprise and stay updated. I keep an eye on emerging trends and capture them ahead of time. This requires creativity and intuition, honed through experience and a commitment to staying relevant. Over time, my philosophy has remained focused on attention to detail and respect for every project, whether for my own brand or others. The use of AI and graphics software has enhanced my creative process, and I strive to adapt and innovate based on the current era.
What is meant by the term: FASHION?
“FASHION” represents the societal appearance reflecting current tastes, particularly in luxury and elegance. It encompasses articles and accessories for women’s clothing that embody both luxury and sophistication. Recent developments have positioned fashion strongly in global markets, supported by technological and industrial advancements in our country.
Which brands have you interacted with and what are your latest collaborations?
I’ve collaborated with renowned luxury brands such as Sergio Rossi, Gucci Group, Bruno Magli, and Baldinini, as well as working with brands like Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent. I later launched my own brand, OROORO BRAND LUXURY.
Having experienced both German and Italian culture, how have these different cultures influenced your design aesthetic and your professional approach?
Growing up in Düsseldorf, a city known for its romanticism, greatly influenced my design aesthetic, instilling a sense of beauty and romanticism in my work. The colourful houses and the vibrant German culture contributed to my sense of aesthetics and taste. Alongside this, German culture imparted a rebellious spirit and openness to diverse cultures, enriching my curiosity and adaptability.
Moving to Italy, I was immersed in the baroque beauty of Salento and the local traditions, which have deeply inspired my designs. The Italian culture of hospitality and simplicity continues to influence my creative process, transforming sensory experiences into artistic expressions.
In your opinion, what are the key elements that define luxury footwear and how do you integrate these elements into your designs?
Research and shape study are crucial to defining the character of footwear. I focus on refined, delicate lines, paying meticulous attention to every detail. The choice of materials, such as soft leathers and customized accessories, is essential to achieving a superior quality. My goal is to create a shoe that seamlessly complements the wearer. The integration of customized heels and precious stones adds the final touch, enhancing the overall design.
Could you share a particularly memorable experience of your work that you still think about today?
One memorable moment was my first Italian Haute Couture event, where my creations graced the runway, highlighted by the accessories I designed. The reaction from the audience, including my proud parents, was incredibly rewarding. Seeing my designs celebrated and appreciated was a profound and fulfilling experience.
Can you share a case in which a design did not go as planned? What did you learn from that experience?
A recent challenge occurred when the pandemic disrupted our plans for a high-end collection. Despite meticulous preparation, the pandemic’s impact on global supply chains and markets affected our expectations. This experience taught me not to take anything for granted and to adapt to unforeseen circumstances. I learned to focus on creating more comfortable designs, such as Sneakers and Bags while maintaining a belief in the enduring value of luxury. The key is to keep moving forward and never stop pursuing one’s goals.
As a member of the jury for the Global Footwear Awards, what do you give priority to when evaluating designs?
I focus on the initial impact and the emotional response conveyed by the design. My method involves viewing all projects in-depth and reflecting on them over time to identify those that evoke strong feelings. I prioritize originality, creativity, and dedication, paying close attention to innovative and futuristic projects. I encourage young designers to seek guidance from experienced craftsmen and manufacturers to refine their ideas.
What advice would you give to aspiring designers who admire you?
Dreams require effort and persistence. Shortcuts can lead to losing sight of your original vision. Stay true to your dream, and remember that talent will eventually find its moment. Don’t be discouraged by obstacles; they are part of the journey to success.
What do you envision for the future, both for yourself and for the design community in general?
I aim to continue creating “Shoes and Bags” with positivity and determination, fulfilling dreams and exploring new opportunities. I am open to contributing to a major luxury fashion house and remain committed to promoting Italian excellence. For the design community, I encourage curiosity, creativity, and resilience. Embrace technical aspects and let your creativity guide you, always striving to improve and innovate.
We are delighted to feature Sean Williams, a distinguished member of the Global Footwear Awards. Renowned for his unparalleled expertise and passion for sneakers, Sean has spent over 39 years transforming the design landscape with his unique vision and storytelling prowess. As a mentor and advisor to designers worldwide, Sean has built a reputation for his authentic approach to sneaker culture, focusing on appreciation, education, and elevation.
In this interview, we delve into Williams’s journey, philosophies, the future he envisions for the design community, and his role as a jury member for the Global Footwear Awards.
Can you tell us about your background? How did your journey to become such a prominent figure in the design community begin, and where did it take you over the years?
I’m in a 39+ year love affair with sneakers. That love allows me to see sneakers as a unique story in every box. As a mentor, advisor and counselor of sorts to designers all over the world I’ve become a trusted source for those who seek accurate and authentic storytelling for their design work and/or promotion and marketing plans. To that end, sneakers have taken me to numerous countries around the world to share my expertise in the education space.
What would you say is your personal philosophy? How has this philosophy evolved throughout the years?
I live by these 3 words when it comes to sneakers and sneaker culture, “Appreciate, Educate, Elevate.” It’s my uncompromised way of live when it comes to my work in this industry
You co-created the first-ever sneaker talk show in 2007, what was the inspiration behind this? How did it change the conversation around sneakers within the industry and among the public?
The idea as originally conceived by OSD Co-founder Dee Wells was to give a voice to sneaker lovers around the world using a format that no one had tried yet. Podcasting was new to EVERYONE so it was the perfect vehicle for us. Our show FORCED all the other sneaker sites to grow up and create more mature subject matters around sneakers. It’s our blueprint and narrative that many of the sneaker media sites of today use when talking about the sneaker industry. We’re very rarely given credit for that, but the proof is well documented.
You work as an adviser for global sneaker brands, how do you stay ahead of trends?
My work with brands is very rarely about trends and more along the lines of helping brands tell AUTHENTIC stories about themselves and the products they make.
You’ve curated public art exhibitions that have reached over 10 million people, what do you think makes an art exhibition successful and memorable, particularly in the context of sneaker culture?
Our success in producing over a decade of sneaker exhibitions is tied to the curation and access. What good is telling a great story if it is limited by who has access to it? Our exhibitions achieve the numbers they have because we chose exhibition partners that allow access to massive numbers of people. Not just a select privileged few.
What challenges do you find most common among emerging designers when it comes to understanding the impact of their designs, and how do your Master Courses address these challenges?
Design programs are great, but who is going to teach the creatives that they need to be armed with business acumen? We’re the only ones in the world who teach the business and culture of sneakers. We’re the only ones that teach the lawyer, the scientist or the marketing professional that there’s a fun industry waiting for them RIGHT NOW without having to reinvent themselves. 13 years after we started SOLEcial Studies, and We’re STILL the only ones GLOBALLY that teach that aspect of the business.
Could you share a particularly memorable experience from your work that you still think about to this day?
I would have to say winning my Anthem Award (in early 2024) for my work teaching in Paris in 2023. It was already a memorable experience, but winning the award for teaching “sneakers” to a room full of students from at least 7 different countries in one classroom was great!
As a jury member for the Global Footwear Awards, what do you prioritise when evaluating designs? What advice would you give to aspiring designers?
My evaluation process as a jury member starts with how much of the inspiration the designer shares with us upfront. What problems are they aiming to solve and the design evaluation is going to be based on how well you did that. Making space aged fast and sharp looking things with no real purpose will never impress me.
What do you envision for the future, both for yourself and for the broader design community?
I want to see more people being skilled in using 3D design, AI design tools. Also focusing more on using the technology as tools in the process instead of the tech being the actual “Ghost Designer” of things. As for me, OSD, and the SOLEcial Studies CommUNITY Academy there will be more groundbreaking courses, and we’re going back further into our roots!
Meta Beasts by Sara Valeri are transitional soccer shoes for ages 7-11, offering comfort, performance, and safety, and featuring a unique digital twin in the metaverse for enhanced skills in and out of the field.
Could you tell us a bit about yourself?
Hi, my name is Sara Valeri. I was born in Merida, Venezuela. From a young age, creativity has been my way of expressing myself and understanding the world around me. Growing up, I used to sketch and paint all the time. I would also disassemble toys and assemble them as new creations; music, specifically playing the guitar, became another outlet for my artistic soul. Now, as an adult, I’ve found a home in design. In this space, I can translate my creative ideas and life experiences into tangible solutions that not only speak to aesthetics but also bring profound meaning and positive change to people’s lives.
Where are you with your studies? Have you specialized in footwear design?
I’m a second-year master’s student at the University of Oregon’s Sports Product Design Program. I plan on graduating this spring of 2024. With a BFA in Industrial design and now immersing myself in the world of sports product design, covering categories like equipment and apparel, my true passion lies in footwear design. Which is the focus of my thesis project and what fuels my aspirations for the post-graduation chapter of my journey..
Is a philosophy, a vision, or a special process influencing your design?
Every design, regardless of its scale, has the potential to bring meaning and impact to someone’s life. Throughout my journey, I’ve woven the threads of my past experiences, the lessons I’ve learned, and the diverse people I’ve met into my daily work. This approach deepens my understanding of others and infuses purpose into my creations. When designing, I always think about the future and how our world can be reshaped for the better through design.
Can you explain your general design process? How do you start a new project?
I kick things off in my design process by profoundly understanding the project brief and problem. I meticulously plan my time, dividing the project into manageable phases. Understanding the end user is critical to “who I’m solving for.” I conduct thorough research, collecting data through surveys and interviews to define pain points and insights. For projects like sportswear, I dive into biomechanics, human factors, and societal trends. Trend forecasting gets me to explore society’s psyche and reactions. Then, I organize ideas, drawing inspiration from past projects and creating mood boards. The ideation phase is about sketching on paper, digitally, or even in virtual reality. I refine ideas using tools like Illustrator and Photoshop, sometimes playing with AI for more sparks. Material research and understanding of manufacturing follow, often involving collaboration with industry experts. After defining everything, I moved to 3D modeling and created physical prototypes and 3D printing components like outsoles and midsoles. Prototypes are tested, validated, and refined based on user feedback before being sent to the factory or client as tech packs, 3D models, and final renders. It’s a journey from concept to reality, ensuring the design works seamlessly in the real world.
What is the most challenging part of working on a new footwear concept?
The most challenging part of working on a new footwear concept is defining the problem and clarifying my goals; therefore, project management is super important. Because sometimes, as a designer, you want to solve too many issues at once, and you can get carried away with different ideas you want to implement. So, it’s always essential to establish the main problem you are trying to solve, always have the defined target consumer in mind, and be able to continually clarify and support each step of the process so that, in the end, it is a streamlined process. You can anticipate changes and work around new paths while focusing on that end solution.
Which footwear designer has had the most impact on your work?
Given the diverse influences throughout my career, choosing a single designer is no small feat. In my undergraduate years, luminaries like Ross Lovegrove, Neri Oxman, Zaha Hadid, Naoto Fukasawa, and Iris van Herpen, introduced by insightful professors, shaped my perspective on design. Thinker Hatfield, with his revolutionary impact on footwear design, kindled my passion for the field. Virgil Abloh, with his ascent to the pinnacle of the fashion industry, taught me that dedication knows no bounds. That one can revolutionize an entire industry with hard work and dedication. Matthew Williams’ contemporary, bold, futuristic aesthetic, challenging norms, and Yohji Yamamoto’s transformative designs with Adidas inspire my work in the realm where fashion meets sports, evoking change and transformation. However, a pivotal figure in my life is my brother Ezio, whose resilience and perseverance have instilled in me the fire to keep designing and fighting for my dreams.
How do you see your work evolving in the future, and what new concept you want to explore?
Peering into the future, I envision my work maturing, carving out a distinctive design aesthetic marked by timeless creations. The evolving landscape of future technologies, particularly the realm of 3D-printed footwear, holds immense appeal for me, and it’s a frontier I’m eager to explore. Beyond that, my journey involves a continuous quest for knowledge and exploration of new paths that lead to groundbreaking innovations in the world of sports and design. Material innovation and sustainability are areas I’m determined to delve into, recognizing the limited knowledge we often have about the end life of our products and the environmental impact of the materials we use. As I design, my goal is not just to solve problems but to contribute revolutionary solutions that stand the test of time. The journey ahead is one of constant learning, exploration, and a commitment to delivering designs that make a positive impact.
One shoe (fits all) by Wout Speyers. Innovative and refreshing. This is a new style of shoe. A shoe for the Oxford style wearer and the man in slippers. Two functions in one design. ‘One shoe fits all’ is part of ‘The World is a natural product’ collection, the winner of the Craft the Leather Award 2022.
Could you tell us a bit about yourself and your professional journey?
I am originally an industrial designer engineer and somewhere in life I fell in love with chairs. Designing chairs was my main focus for quite a while and then it struck me that a chair and a shoe are the same thing. It therefore made sense to switch to shoes and five years ago I started an education in artisanal shoemaking at the René van den Berg Academy.
Both, a chair and a shoe, are free-standing objects defined by the line, sculptural pieces so to speak. Both are intensively used and have complex curved surfaces due to their relationship to the human body. Upholstery, leather, folds, and stitches play a part and new techniques and new materials are quickly integrated with both products.
However, a shoe is more dynamic than a chair and finds its way through the world. It is such a pleasure to be involved with expression and fashion while artisanal shoemaking is still a very technical profession that fits in with my engineering background. The step aside to art is a small one. Ultimately I just make sculptures, if possible practical sculptures.
Can you explain your general design process? How do you start a new project?
A ‘general design process’ suggests that there is a standard approach and maybe that was taught to me at the university a long ago. Something about sketches, variants, and semi-scientific choices but I kind of forgot about that.
Nowadays ideas often come from an object or thing I see at a flea market or in a museum. Sometimes it is a fragment from a song or a line of text from a novel. Perhaps even the dissatisfaction of the evening news. The core is inspiration, a sparkle of life that connects it to the real world.
For example, the Global Footwear Award winner ‘ One shoe fits all’ is made of vegetable-tanned leather which is a responsible choice. To emphasize that we must use precious materials efficiently, I have put two functions in one product. But there is also the observation of modern life. Neatly dressed Oxfords-wearing men run a rat race every day, but there is always a pause. There is a built-in reminder that being less hurried is also an option. Just pull out the slipper and let it all go, the opportunity to take it easy. Hakuna Matata.
It should not be left unmentioned that this shoe was only possible with the support of my mentor René van den Berg.
Is there a philosophy, a vision, or a special process that influences your design?
The year is 2024 and the world is entirely driven by efficiency and the maximization of profit. Well not entirely. A small local shoemaker still holds out against this spreadsheet mentality.
I’m exaggerating a bit, but it still amazes me that professionals send invoices made up of 5-minute time intervals. I resist that and there is no clock in my studio. If there’s one thing I’m aware of – let’s call it vision – it’s being generous with time. Beauty cannot be forced and value creation takes time. Ideas mature slowly, I have plenty of time for my clients and I put everything together in a relaxed manner. That sounds laid back but still, you have to do everything with focus, intensity, and dedication. I cherish commitment and ultimately love for the product.
What did you find the most challenging while working on a new footwear concept?
I often work on many projects at the same time; art projects, (shoe) sculptures, and bespoke shoes for customers. That sounds interesting, but it is not very good for progress. I tend to think more than I actually create and sometimes there is a discrepancy between the ideas and the craft I master.
The answer to all those things is the same: discipline. Keep creating, keep practicing. It is the 2024 New Year’s resolution, like every year.
What does winning the Global Footwear Awards mean to you?
As I mentioned before, I have made a switch from furniture design to footwear and I am relatively new to shoe design. Winning the Global Footwear Awards was a huge boost and confirmation that I am on the right path. Besides that, it is a much-appreciated sign of quality for my customers.
I am very grateful to have won this award. Thanks so much for the opportunity!
What is your sustainable design approach when developing your pieces?
Making bespoke custom shoes is a responsible choice because the valuable leather is used for shoes that are worn (and not for a series of fitting shoes in shops). Well-fitting shoes simply last longer. Since my training in Tuscany, Italy (and winning ‘Craft the Leather’) I have been using more and more vegetable-tanned leather.
I like to think that a local shoemaker is a sustainable choice because the money stays within the community. The ‘buy local’ principle without mass production and major transportation around the globe.
The ‘Makerszoon’ concept created by master shoemaker René van den Berg is a wonderful example of all this. Makerszoon shoes are only made when there is a customer. All vegetable-tanned leather is therefore used effectively. Rene does not use electricity to make this shoe and the imperfections of handmade are part of the design. All stitches are on the outside making the shoe easy to repair. Wherever you are, there will always be someone close by with a needle and thread. To prevent customers from having to drive across the country for a pair of Makerszoon shoes, these shoes are made locally by a craftsman in his studio. That would be me for the province of Utrecht, the Netherlands and I like to involve customers in the entire process of creation. I do use electricity sometimes, don’t tell anyone.
What advice would you offer to aspiring designers?
Be patient and practice. Sooner or later you’ll find your own voice.
(There’s not much wrong with copying the masters to get a sense of greatness).
Footwear Designer Ofir Kertesz Reveals the Story of the metamorphosis Project. Global Footwear Awards 2023, Best Overall Winner in student category.
Ofir was born in Txfat in Northern Israel. And moved to Haifa district to this day. Her life revolved around art, as a child she participated in jewelry lessons, ceramics, and drawing and creating costumes in her free time. After her mandatory service, she started her degree studies at Bezalel Academy.
Winning Project: metamorphosis, During her recovery from a serious car accident that left her disabled both physically and mentally, she became obsessed with the concept of freedom, because she felt deprived of any remnants of it and found herself drawn to the metamorphosis of insects. She created three pairs of shoes, custom-made for her foot measurements using 3d printing and handcrafting techniques.
How did you choose Bezalel Academy Of Art And Design?
I was looking for a program that could teach me about as many aspects of design and art as possible. And the jewelry and fashion departments gave me just that, with the program starting as multi-disciplinary. I had the time to learn which aspects of the program suited me best and chose to continue my studies focusing on shoe design.
How did the design come to have such an important role in your life?
At about 12 years old I started to create fantasy costumes. I did that for about 10 years and decided to be a costume designer for theatre and movies. When I started my studies I came to learn the workings of shoe design and fell in love with the craft.
What is your inspiration behind metamorphosis?
In 2021 I was involved in a serious car crash. Suddenly I was disabled, had to learn how to walk again, and had to build myself back up. I felt like a butterfly and felt that my shell, my body, had more to offer than I could bring at that moment, so in the next months as I recovered, I had to learn how to utilize my body all over again. Same as I imagine a freshly hatched butterfly had to do when it left its chrysalis.
Can you explain your general design process? How do you start a new project?
In this project, I started with how I felt. I started to look for inspiration around me that sparked that feeling and landed on insects and then studied the process that the insects go through and different kinds of them until I landed on the right shapes that I wanted to create with that inspiration.
What does winning the Global Footwear Awards mean to you?
I’m very honored to be selected, every recognition of my art and hard work brings me so much joy.
Are you currently working on something new that you can tell us about?
I’m currently learning how to crochet, with the idea of getting to know a new craft and maybe merging it to my shoe designs.
Winning project: The CRYPTIDE ONE is a luxury lifestyle shoe that is completely 3D printed from one flexible material.
The upper shoe, designed as a sock that is perforated for optimal ventilation, can be shaped by a 3D scan of the foot of its future wearer. The iconic sole design is segmented into the wearer’s toe, ball, and heel areas.
Why did you choose a design that is segmented into the wearer’s toe, ball, and heel areas?
I love to design finding an expression for ‘the creature’ in the object. So the object – in this case, footwear – is of course above all supporting and reacting to the human anatomy but I also wanted to visually extend and translate the anatomy onto the object. Beyond that, it is a work on the footprint of us human creatures: We all leave traces on our ways. I believe these traces should be caused by a much closer connection to our bodies. Also, the brand´s name The CRYPTIDE derives from the ‘creature in the object’: Cryptids are species in cryptozoology – the „science“ of animals that may exist …or not. Wearing the CRYPTIDE ONE will create traces that prove their existence.
What is the material that the shoe is 3D printed off? Why did you choose this material?
The shoe is 3D-printed in TPU. As the shoe is 3d-printed in one go, the challenge was to find a material that works for the shoe´s upper, where it will be in close contact with the wearer´s skin, as well as for the midsole, where it should provide cushioning and stability and for the outsole, that needs to resist abrasion and provide grip. TPU can cover all of these aspects!
What makes your design stand out in comparison to other sneaker designs?
I guess that conceptually and aesthetically the Cryptide ONE design has its independence. The design comes with a few innovations/inventions that I haven´t seen in other footwear to date.
How do you envision the Cryptide sneakers influencing the world of footwear design?
We will see…
What design elements did you prioritize to ensure the style and comfort of the Cryptide sneakers?
The branching structure of the midsole is the result of a simulation-driven design. A topology optimization predicted where the material would be needed to support the wearer´s walking and where material could be left away. This process can help to steer comfort while allowing for a lightweight design. It was important to me that the shape of the upper shoe is as close as possible to the human foot, even the foot of the individual wearer to ensure comfort. As an option, this can be achieved by 3D-scanning the feet of the future wearer to inform the shoe´s geometry with this information. In addition, I wanted to make sure that the TPU material, which is not breathable by default, wouldn´t reduce the wearing comfort. So I went for a continuously perforated upper, that allows comfortable ventilation even in hot summer.
Were there any specific design challenges that you had to overcome to achieve the design you desired? If yes, what?
I wanted the design to be monolithic. One material for everything: No gluing or fusing of different materials or anything that makes pure recycling impossible. So it was a challenge to design the shoe in a way that it is comfortable to wear and durable at the same time.
What made you choose 3D technology to create your design?
I have been developing designs for additive manufacturing (3D printing) for many years – not at all limited to footwear. I have been designing e.g. furniture and robots that only can be produced with the use of 3D printing. Over the years I developed a design language for objects that are meant to be 3D-printed. So it was a natural thing to do to apply this „3D-printing-design-language “to 3D-printable footwear.
What are the advantages and the limitations of using 3D printing, especially when it comes to performance and durability?
When constructed well, 3D-printed shoes can be very durable. I have been testing some pairs for over 1200 km and I am continuing to wear them because they don´t get destroyed. A limitation is the price: 3D printing still is an expensive process.
What can we wish you for 2024?
You could wish me that The CRYPTIDE finally becomes available for purchase soon. And then of course satisfied customers.
Anta held a footwear design competition in 2021 with a theme of the future, focusing on the earth’s ecosystem. Hita Wangse Rudira argues that we must act quickly and consistently to save the planet and explore possibilities with innovation. She envisions a future where natural disasters occur and how we live forward, emphasizing the importance of listening to nature and acting accordingly.
Could you tell us a bit about yourself and your professional journey?
My name is Hita Wangse, you can call me Hita. I am a footwear designer who began my journey in this industry in 2014 with an internship at one of the leading sportswear brands in Indonesia, League Sportswear. Since then, the fun journey started. I also met many senior designers who guided me from the beginning until today. Currently, I am working in Surabaya City, Indonesia, for Ardiles International, a specific division that focuses on the international market. I have connected with many brands from across the world, including France, Norway, the UK, Germany, the USA, UAE, Saudi Arabia, Australia, Spain, Japan, the Philippines, etc. Building a network while developing my skills and upgrading my creativity with design solutions has made me what I am today. I believe, no end is being a designer because problems always come up and we are making the solution.
How did the design come to have such an important role in your life?
Since I was 4 years old, I always accompany my father in painting in his studio. Sometimes I observe how he works with his brush, rotating the canvas, mixing the oil color, and even sleeping beside his painting. Then I learn through paper and pen, simple as that. Drawing everything in a realist mindset, almost every day. Then I started being surrealist because I loved reading manga, drawing short-story manga at 8 years old, drawing characters, and so on. So my family is already in an art / creative environment. The only painter in my family even a big family is only my father. Since then, I made a promise to myself that I would live through my passion for drawing and found out footwear design is my way to bridging my hobby in basketball and drawing. Starting by bridging design and sports, then I found a new vision in designing footwear now, to make my colleagues/stakeholders happy through my work and the products I design have a good impact on the user.
Is there a philosophy, a vision, or a special process that influences your design?
My lecturer said there are levels of problems in our environment which are divided into three questions, What, How, and Why. And the highest level is “why”. So my design philosophy is always trying to answer the “Why” question to get a better version of solutions. When I can answer the “why” it will include “What” and “How”. For the technical part, I always try to do it the fundamental way, by sketching. Pen and paper, digital sketch, even pen, and my palm sometimes. A lot of sketching while listening to music and just sitting alone. Sometimes coffee can be a booster.
What is your inspiration behind ANTA – TERRAN AWR – (ALL WEATHER READY)?
In my Terran AWR design, I just start by imagining something outside human calculation of our future. Through my design, I am trying to imagine in our future there is no “futuristic life” as we admire the progress of technology now. Start with the imagination of “What If” our earth rejects and declines our “futuristic way of life” because we hurting the earth and it giving us an apocalypse all over the world. As a footwear designer, I imagine people will come back to a fundamental way of life, and on of it is by walking/running. With unpredictable contour and climate post-apocalypse, I am trying to redefine what is the most durable and effective to create supportive shoes. I predict 3D printing is in our lifestyle, people make things with 3D Print and there will be so many broken / used materials caused by the apocalypse such as used tires or other rubber. My design is to combine the most future in that moment (that still works) and the easiest process that humans can do post-apocalypse without causing huge damage to the earth, recycling.
Which designers do you admire the most? Do you take inspiration from their work when diving into a new project?
I have high respect for many designers across the globe and not only designers. There is no specific person for it. All designers even junior designers are inspired by me. Not always the person, the process, or the result of the products they create. Their passion, uniqueness, and integrity can inspire me. For example, I admire a person such as Salehe Bembury, Raka Gemma, and Gagaswara as designers, also the famous Akira Nakai in his work ethic and creativity in customizing a car. Anyone can inspire me even the great Ibn Battuta. But most of all is my father, my guide in being creative since I was a kid. I absorb anything from them, how the way they think, work, presentation, calculation, intuition, etc. For a new project, inspiration can come from their work but is not limited to. It always depends on the brief of the project.
What does winning the Global Footwear Awards mean to you?
Actually, in 2023 I was selected two times with 3 categories winner. It is always meaningful to be acknowledged and selected as a winner in such a high-level of footwear event. My Family appreciates my winning with happiness and my mother shares through everywhere, it is so funny. While she said my father will be proud from heaven. It motivates me to be the best of who I am every time. The last two awards categories, with my Terran AWR design entry, hopefully, will inspire many people not only designers because of my insight, imagination, and story behind the design. Or maybe will be developed in the future. It is manufacturable.
What are you working on at the moment? Anything you can share about your upcoming design?
Currently many projects on my desk, designing and assisting brands for 2024. Maybe I will just say that this year will be more into fashion/lifestyle projects coming up. Excited about the releases of brands I assist in starting the product line.
PET LIGER Founder and Visionary Artist, Constantinos Panayiotou reveals the story of the VERTEX LOVE Project. Global Footwear Awards 2023 Design of the Year.
Pushing the boundaries of single silhouettes. The first Heels series featuring the heart motif gained virality on Social Media with over 120K likes.
Could you share your concept behind the design of the Vertex Love high heels? What do you want to express with this design?
Since the theme is Love, what better way to express that than through the use of the universal symbol for love, the heart shape? I wanted the design to appear like it’s almost floating. Also, I wanted the texture and feel of it to look edible and sweet to the taste like candy. All this works together to create a feeling of pure ecstasy.
What inspired you to create the design of the Vertex Love high heels?
Constantinos creates a footwear design every day and posts it to the PET LIGER Instagram account, And he has been doing so for close to half a decade. The Vertex Love Heels were designed and uploaded on Feb 14th to Celebrate Valentine’s Day!
Would you share your approach to choosing the designs based on your whole brand?
PET LIGER is all about having fun and being playful, also I want to inspire others through my work and to make them feel a sense of epicness and awe! That’s how I feel when I’m putting my creations together.
How are the Vertex Love high heels manufactured? Is there any specific technology behind the unique design?
These are digital creations, for now, designed to be worn in the Metaverse. Digital and Onchain fashion is the future!
Based on your extraordinary designs, what do you want to add to the world as a designer?
Beautiful and Iconic silhouettes! Things that bring me joy.
If you could design this pair of heels one more time, what would you do differently?
I have already redesigned them countless times. You can find all the different iterations on the PET LIGER Instagram.
What makes you go to work every day?
Gratitude that today by some miracle I will help to bring something new into the world.
Do you have any new design projects you can share?
At the moment our main focus is bringing these digital works into the physical world. 2024 is the year we finally give the people what they have been asking for!
Could you tell us a bit about yourself and your professional journey? How did the design come to have such an important role in your life?
I have always told myself I’ve been lucky to know from when I was 5 years old what I wanted: to be a Fashion Designer. Then after my study I shaped my career in Footwear.
My Mom shared her creativity with me and she made me grow flowing with that vibration. She taught me all she knows about tailoring, embroidery, crochet. My family has always supported me and I’m really thankful for it.
Design is expression, I would say is part of myself, something I need to do in several ways.
I’ve worked and lived abroad and I currently live in Italy working for a few brands as Design Director and Merchandising.
Is there a philosophy, a vision, or a special process that influences how you approach design? Would you say that you apply it to your life as well?
I could define myself eclectic. I’m attracted and inspired from whatever surrounds me… nature, travelling, art.
My process is quite full of adrenaline. Everyday is quite funny I know, but many many ideas pop out in my mind. Then some of them really gave me that fire I need and I can do it right away.
I could say I’m experienced and connected enough to Make it Happen. So for the creativity stage of the product I’m super enthusiastic and I don’t see any limits.
When it comes to Marketing and Sales it does become much harder for me and that’s the time where I kind of get demotivated and I let it go. As also in my personal life I like to do many different things and I do it with effort and enthusiasm. I know is not always the right choice.. cause after that I would start a new project again. So Yes, maybe this is the right Time to find someone that can support me on that part of the project that you need to have to call it business and get consistent.
How did you come up with the vision for the AYUMA Collection? How did you manage to join your experience in art itself while also focusing on sustainable production?
AYUMA is a brand I’ve created as a safe box for my creative projects.
During a trip to Tokyo I found out Ayuma means Dream – Desire and I thought it was the best way to call my own dream.
My vision of this latest project is a result of years of exploration through art and handcraft based on colors and images.
I wanted to mix the handwoven leather I have explored for a project of interior design presented for the first time in 2016. That project is called Woven life: pictures taken in Tibet and Patagonia of amazing people and nature and handwoven on leather to halve the percentage of colors leaving that beauty of the image when you step back from it. As in our life: sometimes we need to step back and have a bigger vision to see the actual beauty. Then I’ve mixed that project with colorful rubber eva bracelets I’ve developed.
I have worked as a Footwear Designer for 15 years and I’m still thinking of a business where there is so much waste. So I want to work thinking about sustaining the project producing with respect but mostly left over materials where possible.
What kind of feedback have you received and how do you deal with it?
I did receive nice feedback from people I know in the business, I got some interest in my profile too, so I have to say it has been definitively exciting and I thank you for it.
The project I presented is a concept that must be developed to become a capsule collection…
So I would say: stay tuned! It might be a great opportunity to start collaborations in the future.
What did you find most challenging while working on the collection and what did you enjoy the most?
I love to give shape to the construction and find the balance within colors and different materials.
I have always been attracted by colors and geometry.
Is challenging to create a product that is a mix of concepts, based on recovery materials and handcraft work.
Which designers do you admire the most? Do you take inspiration from their work when diving into a new project?
I got inspired from so many different artists and designers and I have to say it changes while travelling and discovering more thanks also to exhibitions around the world.
I could highlight Philippe Apeloig that impressed me years ago after a show where I’ve jumped in. His extraordinary evolution of graphics and color patterns has given me a great emotion since then.
Also Yves Saint Laurant and his impressive and exciting play of colors, the influence of geometry he got back in his early career was such an imprint in my mind.
What does winning the GFA Awards mean to you in terms of validation and recognition of your work in the footwear design industry?
I’m thankful to GFA for giving me the opportunity to show my vision and my name. I’m one of these professionals who has always worked “behind” creating what the market wants.
I did enjoy shaping my vision without business need or design request from the market.. not now.
Are you currently working on something new that you can tell us about?
I’m working on developing this concept for a capsule collection that can be spread across different heel heights and products.
Would be nice to find a way to showcase it later to the right stores.
Right now this slide has a strong approach to colors and volume. The target I’m referring to is quite aware of trend and not afraid to approach colors.
Surely I would like to play in a more soft way with colors in the collection development.
I’ve been travelling for a month across Papua and Bali right after the Award and I do feel the pure energy I want to work on it now.
How do you want people to feel when wearing your designs?
Ecstatic, Eclectic. Aware of art, aware of fashion but not a trend addicted through social media.
I would like AYUMA to be that woman that has been and loves traveling, she loves to be barefoot and comfy but she’re ready to pop a strong product with that personality when she wants.
Why is sustainable design so important to you personally?
Sustainability in my opinion in recent years became a word that many people in the fashion industry approach with and only Marketing focus.
I’m quite disappointed about it. Surely I would like to be as sustainable as possible but I want to do it consistently. I want to build designs that take into consideration all the supply chain.
What role do you think culture sustainability plays in the modern footwear industry?
The latest Mantra in Fashion is “make less, make better, give a longer life to products” . I would like to take these words seriously and make it happen taking in mind that some products are still quite seasonal but they must have a Story, that passion behind that makes them feel in some ways Unique.
Ayuma’s Motto is “Unique as YOU are” right because I hardly believe in it. I like those small impressions that skilled hands make.
The main concept in Ayuma is referring to CULTURE SUSTAINABILITY which means take that beauty of hand making. I want to give effort to my Italian background, the Country where I belong to and work with those ideas that can only be amazing if realized with maniacal patience, passion and care. On the big vision there is the idea to explore the same beauty across the word.
I’ve been travelling a lot in my life and I would love to build and explore that beauty across the word and the history of artisans.
How do you see your work evolving in the future, and what new sources of inspiration do you hope to explore?
Traveling is my main inspiration. I’m a travel addict, those people need to move, do things, go far and come back. I would call myself Dynamic and I would like to see my project like that too.
I love talking and getting personally woven with different cultures across the word. That was the base concept of my Art project where I do handwoven by hand.
So I do dream to make this traveling become part of it, find the economic support of someone who believes in evolution… cause I would like Ayuma to be in that way: I do change, the brand is doing it with me.
What advice would you offer to aspiring designers who dream of creating meaningful designs such as yours?
Somehow I believe that in the last years 3d art gave a great opportunity to all creative people like me. I would suggest not to stop in front of a screen but get hands on taking the advantage needed from these programs but learning how to actually do this amazing job of showing creativity.
These are the young designers who won the Global Footwear Awards competition
Graduates of the Department of Jewelery and Fashion in Bezalel continue to occupy peaks. Just two weeks ago we told.on the unique order she received Department to present at the prestigious jewelery week in Minchthere. And now 2 young designers are graduates of the department winning awards at the Global Footwear Awards International Competition. These are their 2 winning alumni and winning models.
In the Artistic Footwear category, Hassan Kurd won the shoe design project ‘Reborn’.
Kurd designed a leather shoe made of plant processing (Vegetable tanned leather). The shoe was created with a unique technique called Wet-molding and a precise wet-stretch-drying-counterfeiting procedure. Thus the shoe was handmade, accumulating layers of skin on each other as a means of describing the process of formation, growth, variability.
“ Shoe design seeks to perpetuate ‘ Time-sounds ’ and parallels the plant backpack with human life and the effects of time on its life cycle, from a small, variable seed, in its way from the past to the future, from time to time.” A statement was made to the press, and indeed the meaning is present in the unique work. The landing work, Eliora to Mr. Ginsburg, is a senior lecturer in the Department of Jewelery and Fashion in Bezalel
In the sports category – performance – independent sports, Maya Kaplan won the project ‘Bound to Move.
The works of Kaplan we have covered in the past And they draw inspiration from the world of performance and acrobatics. Also included are the shoes in the design are an innovative accessory for acrobatic performance. The design process combined digital technologies with traditional manual techniques. The design dealt with questions about liberty and human identity.
“ Distortion of body edges and restriction for surrender and devotion to the restricted and prohibited led to the search for freedom of movement and new self-determination. Using anatomical casting and 3D scanning, the accessory is perfectly matched to the user’s foot and consists of two layers: Hard outer layer made of durable and strong 3D printing material and inner layer of leather that protects the foot from abrasion and damage.” Delivered in a press statement. The landing job, Shelley Seth-Kombur, the department head For jewelery and fashion in Bezalel.
“ Student and Graduate Department each year wins this prestigious award. This is a great pride that this year too Graduates of the Department of Jewelery and Fashion in Bezalel Winners of first place in the various categories.” My message is that Kombur is the head of the department of jewelery and fashion in Bezalel. “ The department is proud to be at the forefront of shoe design in the country and in the world ”. It is gratifying to see Israeli designers occupying more peaks and representing the innovation of the local industry every time.
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